Village Bistro

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Village Bistro is a little French, somewhat Italian, sort of American with East Indian Accents. It's what used to be called continental, but it suffers from none of the usual continental restaurant flaws. Prices are modes and the food is charming, often original.

Escargots are sauted with mushrooms and walnuts, Bistro calamari is equally luscious, tender squid rings in a buttery creamy sauce spiked with black peppers, wafting aromas of garlic and herbs. Look to the board outside listing the specials of the day's. If you live under a lucky star,you'll find red snapper with green tomato curry sauce, or rockfish with lemon olive oil sauce or bouillabaisse.. The fish is crusty and cooked so that it is still moist but no the least bit raw. The sauce is memorable, a thick, faintly sweet and savory puree of tomatoes, turmeric, whole mustard seeds and other curry spices with a touch of cream. The accompanying vegetables are show stoppers, sometimes little potatoes carved into faux mushrooms, small tomatoes topped with cheese, crunchy Brussels sprout or whole baby carrots, perhaps crusty herbed new potato halves. Surprisingly good among the pastas is penne with chicken-juicy and nicely browned chunks of breast-and tart slices of apple in a cream sauce.The menu is broad, with an emphasis on fresh fish, a smattering of veal and chicken entrees, several pastas and pizzas, and "small plates" that could serve as a light meal.

1723 Wilson Blvd., Arlington. 703-522-0284. Open for lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., for dinner Monday through Sunday 5:00 to 10:00 p.m.Reservation suggested. All major Credit Cards accepted.